Jewellery Care

The Keeper's Guide: Tending to Your Jewels

Every piece in the Archive has already lived a lifetime. To ensure these storied finds remain healthy for the next century, they require just a little stewardship.

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The Annual Check-up

Just as we require a bit of maintenance, we recommend a professional health check once a year. A trusted jeweller can ensure prongs are stable and settings are secure, keeping your jewels safe for the journey ahead. A professional check-up almost always includes a deep, expert clean — meaning you can let the experts handle the heavy lifting while you simply enjoy the glow.

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The Interim Refresh

If your storied find features a variety of gemstones — as many of our historic pieces do — always follow the care guidance for the most vulnerable stone in the setting. When a resilient diamond shares a home with a sensitive pearl, treat the entire piece with the sensitive soul care it deserves.

Should your treasure need a little sparkle before its next annual check-up, here is how to safely tend to it at home.

The Resilient — Diamonds, Sapphires & Rubies. These stones love a gentle refresh. A bowl of lukewarm, mild soapy water and a very soft toothbrush will clear away the dust of history. If your piece features tapered baguettes, be extra gentle — these sleek cuts are often held by just two ends, and a soft touch ensures they stay seated in their geometric home.

While modern jewels tolerate an ultrasonic cleaner, many of our vintage pieces do not. The vibrations can loosen old stones or rattle delicate filigree work. Our Contemporary Classics are generally safe in an ultrasonic, with the exception of emeralds, pearls, opals, and any other sensitive or porous stones — these always follow their own care rules regardless of age. When in doubt, stick to the hand-wash.

The Vivid Gems — Garnets, Tourmalines, Topaz, Aquamarine, Amethyst, Tanzanite, Citrine, Cairngorm, Peridot & Spinel. These stones are full of spirit but appreciate a gentler touch than a diamond. Use lukewarm — never hot — soapy water. Tourmalines in particular dislike sudden heat, so keep them away from steam or boiling water. This is especially true of watermelon and bi-colour tourmalines.

The Brittle Beauty — Emeralds. Emeralds are the aristocrats of the Archive, but they are famously temperamental. They often possess internal gardens that make them brittle. Emeralds hate heat and vibrations — never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. A lukewarm, damp cloth is the only way to refresh an emerald without risking a fracture.

The Dry-Only Rule — Foil-Backs, Paste & Marcasite. Many of our Georgian and Victorian treasures are closed-back. These pieces don't like to be submerged — water can seep behind the stone and dim the historic foil. Similarly, the ancient glues used in marcasite settings can dissolve if they get wet. A simple, dry buff with a lint-free cloth is all these treasures need to keep their glow.

The Sensitive Souls — Pearls, Opals, Moonstone, Turquoise, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite & Other Porous Stones. These are the sensitive souls of the gemstone world. They are porous and should never be soaked. They thrive on the natural oils of your skin, so the best care is simply to wear them — they're happiest when they're with you.

After wearing, give pearls a gentle wipe with a soft, barely-damp cloth to remove perspiration, which can be acidic over time. Store them separately — pearls scratch easily. Ethiopian opals, particularly the hydrophane variety, are especially sensitive to water and can absorb moisture, which may cause temporary colour changes or crazing as they dry. Keep all opals clean and dry.

Sculptural Friends — Cameos, Onyx, Coral, Shell, Chalcedony, Agate, Carnelian, Jet, Bloodstone & Jasperware. These carved beauties are sturdy but can be porous. Keep lotions, oils, and perfumes away from their surfaces — especially the matte finish of jasperware, coral, and cameos — to ensure their crisp details and natural colours remain defined and unstained.

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The Living Metals & Fine Details

Silver & Rose Gold. These metals develop a soulful patina over time. A quick buff with a polishing cloth keeps them bright when you want them so.

Filigree & millegrain. The tiny gold beads and lace-like wires found in Art Deco and Edwardian pieces are delicate. Avoid heavy pressure when cleaning so you don't soften these crisp, historic details.

The Story of the Shank. Many antique rings were designed with delicate, thin bands — which may have become even finer after decades or centuries of wear. If your find feels particularly dainty, treat it with extra care. Should you wish to strengthen a piece for daily wear, an advanced specialist jeweller can often perform a shank overlay — a technique that reinforces the band while preserving those precious historic hallmarks. This does affect the original structural integrity and historical state of the ring, and is a choice to be made thoughtfully.